Flowers, Fireworks and Fish

Bus Route: (483[El Medano]) 483[Las Americas] to Golf del Sur, 115[Santa Cruz].

Return: 115[Las Galletas] to San Isidro, 470[Los Cristianos] to Los Abrigos.

Buses to Los Realejos run from Puerto de La Cruz.

As you know, if you have been following the blog, I have been in a quandry as to what to include in my second year here in Tenerife whilst remaining faithful to the main theme 'Tenerife by Bus' but not repeating myself. Well the weekend commencing Friday 3^rd May presented an opportunity to add to the blog and the photo albums. Are you all sitting comfortably? Then I will begin....

As you know I have been very luck in meeting my landlords, Jose-Luis and Teresa, as they have taken me to many interesting places and given me an incite into the culture and traditions of the island. We are exploring the possibility of a trip to Madrid in September so it was suggested that I visit them on Friday 3^rd May as this coincided with the 'Festival of the Cross' celebrations, a public holiday in the city.



You may recall that I discovered this tradition by accident last year and took some photographs around the local area the day after not realising that it is a big event in Santa Cruz itself. We had decided to meet around noon for a walk followed by one of Teresa's amazing Canarian lunches and then, I thought, I would catch the bus home. Little did I know!

I checked the timetable and decided to catch the 09:30 483 to El Medano and the 10:20 116 to Santa Cruz for a change. The 483 arrived. “El Medano por vavor” says I, “No” says the driver. I hadn't noticed the small print in the new timetable, the 09:30 terminated in Los Abrigos before turning around at the end of the village and returning to Las Americas. Why I don't know. I explained that I wanted to go to Santa Cruz. “Santa Cruz closed” said the driver. Did this mean that there were no buses to Santa Cruz today? “I'm meeting friends” in my halting Spanish so he let me on then turned the bus around so that I could catch the 115 in Golf del Sur which was ahead of us but he flashed it to wait at the next stop, not my initial plan but an exciting start to the day.

Arriving in Santa Cruz I found that it was indeed 'closed', the 3^rd is a holiday in the municipality with concerts, a romeria and the 'Festival of the Cross'. To quote:

“The 3^rd May is one of the liveliest days in Santa Cruz. Following an old tradition from the times when the city was founded, around five centuries ago, the capital is carefully adorned with flowers neatly tied together by residents to create colourful crosses. Locals from different districts compete to be awarded the most beautiful cross. The night before, people dressed in traditional clothing gather in the historical street, Calle de la Noria, to enjoy a feast prepared from local produce. The festival continues with folk music and dances.”

As I walked past the Plaza de Canelaria a group was playing on the stage set as a traditional harbour. Teresa and I walked up towards the Parque Garcia Sanabria passing a church with the typically dressed cross which I had seen locally last year.

Crowds were out in traditional costume and the Parque was crowded with families watching the 'Martinets' – 'Punch and Judy' show or looking at the flower displays in the marquees along the main boulevards. Prizes are awarded for the best displays and it reminded me of the Chelsea flower show. We strolled on through the Parque to the Rambla de Santa Cruz where the competition crosses were displayed for judging, an interesting contrast to the sculptures which I have previously bloged. We walked along, meeting friends on the way, after exploring two sections we came across the children’s' contributions from schools in the area.
Their imagination knows no bounds.

 I didn't see all of the entries for either the adults or children as it is quite a walk and as we spied a 'tapas and cervesa for 2 euros' sign in front of a hotel across the road, refreshments were in order.

View my 'Festival of the Cross' photo album

A leisurely stroll back through the Parque along a different boulevard revealed that the book show was taking place too, I'm sure it was later last year. I saw one or two balconies dressed for the Romería too. We also came across a local craft market tucked away down some side streets entertained by Cuban musicians and people dancing in the street. Back to the apartment for an excellent lunch then time for a siesta as it was revealed to me that we were going to a firework display that night. I had read about this last year. This display is quite famous around the island noted for it's many firework displays as there are two pyrotechnic manufacturers in Los Realejos. 

They compete from each end of the town to see who can give the best display. We sat on the terrace of a local restaurant eating rabbit and papas washed down by a local red wine watching the two displays which lasted, in total, some two hours. Local knowledge is a good thing as I would never have found the place and probably stood somewhere to watch the display. You can catch a bus from Puerto de La Crus or Icod de los Vinos to Los Realos so it is accessible from either end of the island but you will probably have to find overnight accommodation.

View my 'Firework competition' photo album

After a few hours sleep on Jose-Luis's rather comfortable couch, a shower then out for a breakfast of chocolate and churros at a little place off the tourist track. Back to the apartment with some fresh churros for Teresa who was rising later than us then, after tidying the apartment I was asked if I would like a coffee? “Please” I said making my way to the dining table. “No, we go to the street” says Teresa. Outside there are tables and chairs under umbrellas belonging to the local cafés. We sat and ordered as friends came and went enjoying a coffee and a chat. Another insight into the local way of life. 

 Later we walked along to the 'African' market which they said I must see. I had wandered past this structure before whilst exploring the city but was not tempted inside as I thought it would be a tourist trap. Little did I know it is a dramatic building which is visible for a mile or so along the Puente Gran Serrador Valentin Sanz across one of the imposing bridges over the main baranca. If this was full of water it would equate to the Thames or Seine. The statue of the woman with the jugs in the basket represents the old way of delivering milk to households in the city, the women from the 'Fincas' would walk down to the city with jugs of fresh milk each day then walk around the streets selling milk as they went. The market is an amazing place on two floors where you can shop for fresh produce from flowers, fruit and vegetables to fresh and dried fish, to meat and pastries, cheeses, herbs and crafts produced by local artisans. 

I bought a cactus. My mother used to knit all sorts of things and she would have loved this.

View my 'Africa Market' photo album

Returning to the apartment we then set off for the bar/restaurant where we ate at New Year for an excellent lunch of freshly caught fish before I made the return trip to Los Abrigos. Another amazing weekend courtesy of Jose-Luis and Teresa. Muchas Gracias!