Icod de los Vinos – Part I

Bus Routes: 843[Los Cristianos, Las Americas] to 'Esaction' Costa Adeje then 460[Guia Isora, Icod]
Return: 460[P Americas], 843[El Medano]

We have been along the route of the 460 before both to Santiago del Teide and to Icod 'Estacion', transferring to a bus to Garachico (November and January blogs). I have contemplated Icod de los Vinos to give its full name before because it is the home of the famous 'Dragon' tree, a photo of which appears in every guide book or map of Tenerife. I was put off by comments by a travel writer who was going to visit Icod then changed his mind because there was nothing there other than a 'flat modern shopping centre near the bus station'. Consulting my sources as to what was on this week highlighted 'Fiestas de San Marcos, Icod de los Vinos' so I thought “Why not.” Incidentally I have put a 'Useful link' in to the 'Island Connections' English newspaper published fortnightly here in Tenerife – contains a double page listing of events on the Islands usually around page 40 something. You can view on line and download PDF files of separate pages using the 'Front Page' icon at the top right of the banner.

I knew that I would have to catch the 08:41 843 from Los Abrigos to be able to catch the 460 to Icod at 09:35 but I hadn't taken into account the Saturday night entertainment at the caffe and the fact that the clocks moved forward an hour early Sunday morning. I waited at the bus stop wondering if this was such a good idea! The bus arrived exactly to the minute and the connection was on time too so of we set on what is always a breathtaking journey arriving at Icod at 11:15. I walked through to the gift shop after noting that the return times had changed slightly under a revised schedule (always worth checking before leaving your stop) and asked if he had a street map. In Spanish he explained that I went out of the station, turned left then round past 'Shell' and follow the road. The map was complementary. I don't know why the aforesaid chappy couldn't find anything to do here, about 4 minutes later (I reckon 6 minutes and I would have been in the main street) I was talking to an English expat who was sitting in an information booth next to the road. She did not know anything of a 'Fiesta' but the church practically opposite was the 'Iglesia de San Marcos'. She promptly 'phoned around and discovered that there was a procession from the 'Ermita de El Calvario' at about 21:00 that night. This meant an “Oh well.” as the last bus back was at 20:00. If my premium bonds come up I'll be able to stay overnight. I could have got the early bus back but, after my experiences at carnival, I have decided that I am not getting any younger! I purchased a ticket to the 'Parque del Drago' from her for €4.00 although she did say that you can see the tree without entering the park, the park itself is well worth a visit. IT IS.

I had noted from my excellent map produced by the city council that most of the buildings were closed on a Sunday but I was not to be disappointed. I followed her directions, crossing the street noticing an excellent cycle proficiency circuit set up on the roof of the underground car park – much better than the cones and tapeI have seen in the UK – I walked a few yards further and turned left (you could go straight on and up the steps to the other side of the park and the back of the church but it isn't as dramatic as the route I took. I took the short walk down the Rambala Pérez del Cristo and entered the Calle San Sebastian. Looking left is a very picturesque street and, turning right, you have the entrance to the 'Plaza Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres' and at the top of the street a very old local vintner and wine merchant's shop. I entered the Plaza and strolled around before entering the Iglesia de San Marcos after the mourning service finished. A couple had just reaffirmed their vows after 25 years of marriage. The plaza was built in the 16^th Century and enlarged in the 18^th. It is popularly known as the 'Plaza de San Marco' because of the church. The monument to General José Antonio Páez, founder of Venezuela's independence is just inside the entrance because his Great-grandfather emigrated from Icod. During the summer months musical concerts are held in the bandstand of the cafe. The church is the most important one in the municipality and region and houses the Museum of Sacred Art including the largest silver cross in the world. It is said that the Guanches venerated the saint's icon, a small sculpture, on this spot before the conquest by the Spanish.

Backtracking slightly the city was built in 1501 and is a collection of royal houses, ancient palaces, churches and convents and produces a famous excellent local wine hence there will be Icod part II and possibly III as, instead of wondering what to do as everything was shut I actually ran out of time. After I had visited the church and said a prayer for Anne, I had a peasant lunch in the open air cafe. It cost €3.65 single to Icod worth coming up just for lunch in these surroundings. I took a few more photographs then strolled out of the park past the wine merchant's and into the 'Plaza de la Pila'. This is the historic city centre, used to be called 'Plaza de la Constitution' until the fountain was paced there supplying water to the city. Supposedly this is the most beautiful square in the Canary Islands. My next visit will explore some of the buildings surrounding the plaza. The tree reminded me of a candle holder. I then followed the path to the 'Parque del Drago', stopping on the way to buy a thimble for my sister. Icod is famous for the 'Dragon' tree but the whole park is well worth the visit, I spent the whole afternoon there and only left because I was so tired. It is a maze of paths and walks displaying many different types of trees, flowers and herbs. There is also a Guanche burial site in a cave. The 'Dragon' tree 'El Drago Milenario' is believed to be 1000 years old though they do not have rings like other trees to prove it. It is 22m high and the lower trunk is 10m in diameter. It is estimated to weigh 70 tonnes. It is the oldest known plant species of its kind in the world. The whole of the landscaping of the park is amazing and as can be seen from the photographs the 'Dragon' tree can be viewed from elsewhere it is well worth the time.

Although the park closes at 18:30 to entrants you can stay later however by 17:30 I was thoroughly worn out (lack of sleep didn't help) so I walked back to the bus station to catch the 18:10 460 back to Las Americas taking a few photographs on the way as it was now still light. The bus got me back in time to catch the 19:50 483 back to Los Abrigos where I had a sandwich and went to bed!

Managed to take a couple of photos of landmarks leading into Las Chafiras as it always worries me where to get off when arriving back from that direction on the 111 late at night. There isn't enough light when its dark if you get my drift. So now you know.

Till next time....

View my 'Icod de los Vinos' Photo Album